You don't often see the word "epiphany" in a blog post.

But last Saturday, for the second time in two weeks, I watched group attitudes toward Michigan wine evolve just as notably, if less publicly, than at Harding's Cab Franc Challenge.

Let's set the stage. Every summer, a couple of wine-loving friends throw a tasting bash they call their "Wine Cellar Reduction Party". OK, the name's hokey. But during a tightly-scripted evening that can last longer than a Rich Rodriguez football practice, our generous host-cum-impresario trots out flight after superb flight for his oenophiliac guests.

A printed wine list guides us through the evening's excess. Some bottles are "interesting", recently procured, while cellar gems can have 20 years or more on them. During the evening we invariably play a raucous round of "guess what's in the brown paper bags".

In other words, this is a tough, wine geeky crowd that wouldn't have taken Michigan wine seriously even a few years ago.

Hence the epiphany when our hosts put out last Saturday's tasting list. Along with usual suspects like Kistler Chardonnay, 1990 Pichon-Baron and 1970 Taylor Port appeared three flights of Michigan wines: one rosé, one Pinot Noir, the third mostly Cabernet Franc. (Click the thumbnail to see the list in a readable-sized window). 

It would be nice to report that 2007 Brys and 2 Lads Cab Franc blew away the 1986 Cheval Blanc.

Nice, but inaccurate. It wasn't even close.

But it was fascinating to observe a group of serious wine lovers taste and discuss flights of serious Michigan wines that most had never tried.

Consternation prevailed over the rosés. This crowd primarily prefers its pinks bone dry, and many (but not all) of Michigan's showed significant sweetness. The two French in the flight appeared closer in style, if not quality, to group norms.

One infallible indicator -- which bottle empties first? -- pointed to Forty-five North Pinot Noir and 2 Lads Cab Franc rosés as the favorites. The former bottle disappeared into the house, never to return; the latter's unusual style caused its level to drop precipitously even as it elicited multiple comments, not 100% flattering, about its dark color.

Then, as if on cue, Wyncroft owner / winemaker Jim Lester showed up in perfect time to crash the Pinot Noir flight with -- surprise! -- his just-bottled 2007.

That wine -- dark and dense, but surprisingly elegant -- set the crowd abuzz. Debate ensued over whether it was more Oregonian or Burgundian, which Lester silenced by pronouncing it Michiganian. Another favorite, more fruit-driven, came from Shady Lane -- the only other 2007 in the flight.

Finally, a mixed flight of Cab Franc and other Bordeaux grapes, with two Lester add-ins: Fenn Valley's 2007 Meritage and his own 2002 Shou Bordeaux blend, from magnum.

Several bottles drew positive notice, starting with Fenn Valley's -- along with some regrets over artifacts from its American oak aging. Bowers Harbor's 2005 displayed the softening benefit of extra bottle time, while 2 Lads and Brys wowed with their usual medal-winning panache. Wyncroft again stood out from the crowd, showing both its age and Bordeaux-like qualities to advantage.

No, things didn't go downhill the rest of the evening (except for a Chilean Syrah...). Almost every top Bordeaux drank magnificently, offering silent feedback as to where, despite Michigan's vast strides, our wines stand in the world pecking order.

But that's not the point. The evening's clear take-away: a group of serious tasters found they could seriously enjoy a group of Michigan's better wines. And that development is unlikely to reduce any of our cellars in the years to come.