High-profile New York wine writers Lenn Thompson and Evan Dawson won't judge at future wine competitions, and urge other journalists to follow suit.
The complaints are valid -- but their prescription doesn't work for states like Michigan.
Pssssst! Hey, buddy, wanna buy a genuine trophy-winning Michigan ice wine for just $15? Doug Welsch of Fenn Valley is betting 900 cases on a one-time-only deal he figures you can't resist...
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| Fennville | ![]() |
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| Grass Lake | ![]() |
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| Suttons Bay | ![]() |
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| Old Mission | ![]() |
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| UPDATE with judges' comments: Brys Estate captures Cab Cup |
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AUGUST 21; Updated AUGUST 26 -- The entries and winemakers came from all over the state. But the trophy and medals went back to Old Mission Peninsula.
![]() Brys Estate winemaker Coenraad Stassen (center) accepts the Harding's Cup from Tim Harding and Terry Stingley And in a clean sweep for Old Mission wineries, the six-judge panel awarded second and third place medals to the just-bottled 2 Lads Reserve Cab Franc and Brys's own regular release. Twenty-two wines entered the Challenge, almost evenly split between the state's northern and southern wine regions. The event was organized and sponsored by Kalamazoo-based Harding's Markets and took place at that city's Park Club. William Harrison, Chairman of the Michigan Grape and Wine Council's Research Committee and one of the judges, termed 11 of the wines "excellent quality that could be comparable to any similar red wines anywhere in the world." Master Sommelier Claudia Tyagi, another judge, called them, "an exceptional array of well made wines from a stunning Michigan vintage." Only wines from 100% Cabernet Franc in the 2007 vintage were eligible to enter, according to Terry Stingley, wine director for Harding's."This is a clear victory for vinifera grapes and the notion of terroir in Michigan," said Stingley. Harrison was unsurprised by the showing of Old Mission's two reserve bottlings.
"Wines like the Brys Estate Artisan and the Two Lads Reserve benefit tremendously from their wineries' commitment to very small crop size in the vineyard and special handling throughout the winemaking process," he noted. "These wines are made in very limited quantities, even by Michigan standards, and command a very high price." Aside from the Brys Artisan Series at $50, the Brys regular Cab Franc sells for $30. 2 Lads Reserve, bottled just two days before the Challenge, is scheduled for October release; its price isn't set. Harrison had several other observations on the wines:
Following the tasting, Tyagi expressed a clear stylistic preference among the wines. "It was not inappropriate to compare these wines to a classic French Chinon... Our best wines demonstrate the class, structure, and nuance of the finest old world, terroir driven wines," she said. "We should not expect anything from Michigan to be successful in the zaftig, high alcohol styles of California or Australia, and I strongly feel that our winemakers should not try to produce wines in this style." Tyagi singled out seven favorites from the judging: Black Star Farms Arcturos, Bowers Harbor, Brys Artisan, Raftshol, Shady Lane, and both wines from 2 Lads. More than a dozen winemakers attended the Challenge and awards reception. They included Brys's Coenraad Stassen, 2 Lads' Cornel Olivier, Shady Lane's Adam Satchwell, and Domaine Berrien's Wally Maurer. Other judges were Sommelier Michael Cregar, owner of Wines of Distinction, Patrick Fegan, head of the Chicago Wine School, Jean-Jacques Fertal of Eagle Eye Imports, and Dean Rondy from Oxford Wine and Beverage. _________________________ CORRECTION: William Harrison's affiliation with the Michigan Grape and Wine Council was previously misidentified. He is Chairman of its Research Committee. It's been corrected in the text and is noted here.
MichWine live-blogged from the event; read the feed here
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The founder of southwest Michigan's Fenn Valley Vineyards died on August 6 at the age of 83. He purchased the land for Fenn Valley in 1973 and built the winery three years later.
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Links to wine news from Michigan and elsewhere. Use the Contact Fom to let us know what should be here.
New posts every Tuesday, sometimes more or less often
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KNOW A GOOD BYO? PLEASE SHUT UP!
Michigan's consumer-unfriendly laws make most BYO illegal. So publicizing places that quietly allow it doesn't necessarily do them any favors.
Yes, thank you, I believe I WILL try some Michigan Cabernet Franc next to that '86 Cheval Blanc
Mere coincidence that Old Mission's two South African-trained winemakers grabbed all the awards at the Cab Franc Challenge? Maybe not...
WINE WRITING'S ETHICAL THICKET
Why does wine writing tolerate murky ethics and apparent conflicts of interest that wouldn't be acceptable in other areas of journalism? The new AnnArbor.com is the latest media outlet to ignore such concerns.
Kalamazoo retailer Stingley believes Cab Franc has the chops to become our state's flagship. And he's organizing a one-of-a-kind event to help make it happen.
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