by Debra Jett

Remember the glamor days of airline travel, with roomy seats and a staff attuned to your every need -- including real meals and free in-flight beverages?

The spread at Vino Volo: Not your typical airport fare

No, I don't admit to being that old, either.

But civilized air travel hasn't completely vanished. Enter Vino Volo (from the Italian for "wine flight"), a tasting bar and retail wine shop in Detroit Metro and eight other airports across the country. 

Their mission: to provide a "sophisticated yet approachable post security retreat" in airports nationwide, with an eventual goal of 50 locations.

Along the way, they've also developed and patented a unique tasting chart to help simplify the styles and complexities of different wines.

A group of food and beverage-savvy investors began San Francisco-based Vino Volo in 2004. The Detroit location opened in the airport's McNamara Terminal in 2008.

I spoke with Chris Simmons, General Manager of Vino Volo's operations. He's currently based in Detroit to select and train staff, and brings a unique background in the arts coupled with food industry experience and a passion for wine. 

So what's to drink?

Before my visit, I didn't hold out much hope of finding a wine lover's wine bar / shop in an airport concourse. But wth so many wine shops sprouting up that offer mediocre or banal selections of wine and standard fare, with staff that aren't up to snuff, the concept intrigued me and I pressed on. 

First I needed to pass through security and find my way into the McNamara Terminal's Concourse A, where I found Vino Volo next to a mini spa. It offers a luxurious but comfortable feel, with leather lounge chairs and tables at which to sit and sip, and a clean, organized display of wines, wine magazines and accoutrements for purchase. Who needs a Sky Club when you have this?

Two things quickly set Vino Volo apart: consideration of the seasoned traveler in the wine selection, and TLC in hiring and training the energetic and customer-focused staff. The staff is educated and encouraged to participate in tastings to better serve their customers, and in some instances the staff's notes and picks notes end up on the tasting menu. Pride in ownership is the clear message they convey.

The range of wines is impressive. Heavy hitters and other recognizable wines such as Joseph Phelps, Barnett Vineyards, Vieux Telegraphe and even half bottles of Chateau d'Yquem share shelf space with hand-selected small producers.

Several Michigan wines are available, including Brys Estate's Signature Red and Larry Mawby's Fizz Demi-Sec. One surprise: Leelanau Peninsula Riesling under the Janna label of California Riesling master Scott Harvey. The wine, a Michigan Wine Competition gold medal winner seldom seen on local shelves, was Harvey's joint project with 45 North winemaker Shawn Walters. Chris mentioned plans afoot to beef up the selection of Michigan wines. 

Wines are offered by the bottle or glass, or you can purchase tasting flights from a menu that changes on a regular basis. 

In states that allow it -- but not Michigan, where it's against the law -- Vino Volo will ship purchases for you. They also package bottles to carry on board -- but be careful. If you need to pass through another airport's security without the chance to transfer your bottles to a checked bag, they'll be confiscated.

Vino Volo also offers small plates to pair with the wines.  After a few minutes, it's easy to forget that you're in an airport terminal.  

Vino Volo's patented chart categorizes wines by taste and complexity

Tristan, an attentive young server assisted me. His wine knowledge was impressive, and he provided excellent customer service -- not only to me, but other customers in the store.

From the food menu, I tried Marcona almonds roasted on the premises in a brown sugar mixture together with rosemary ($4). Very savory, and defiinitely met the "yum factor".

I couldn't resist the "Shades of White" sampling flight from the wine list. It consisted of a 2008 Sherwood Sauvignon Blanc (New Zealand); 2008 Villa Diana Pinot Grigio (Italy); and 2007 Matchbook Chardonnay (California). Cost: $9 for the three two-ounce pours.

Food selections were a treat -- an antidote to standard airport fare! Chris Simmons suggested the cheese plate, which offers a selection of 3 artisanal cheeses touched with a bit of Italian fig jam ($8). I also tasted the smoked salmon and crab meat crostini ($8), and a warm Brie and Prosciutto sandwich with fresh greens, baguette toasts and fig jam ($6). Everything is prepared on the premises. I like to eat light while traveling, and any of these selections would have provided just that.

I enjoyed the salmon and crab meat crostini, although the salmon overpowered the crab; this dish worked well with the very buttery, full-bodied, oakey-yet-pleasant Matchbook Chardonnay. I also liked the Brie and Prosciutto sandwich, but wouldn't have objected to a bit more Proscuitto. The cheeses and fig jam worked nicely with Villa Diana Pinot Grigio. Although not a huge fan of New Zealand Sauvignons, the Sherwood Estate did bring to the table the expected in-your-face grapefruity quality that you might expect in a New Zealand Sauvignons.

As Joel Goldberg is known to say, "It doesn't get much better than this!" I give high marks to Vino Volo and what they're setting out to accomplish in an airport setting. There's just one downside: you'll need a boarding pass in order to try them out.

Vino Volo
Near Gate A43, McNamara Terminal, Detroit Metro Airport
Hours: Weekdays 8AM-10PM, Saturday 8AM-8PM; Sunday 12PM-10PM

Debra Jett runs the website Wine Women Online, and is always ready to fly

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