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Editor's blog

A regional fix for local needs?

Michigan State University is scrambling to support regionally- based online courses as replacements for its former viticulture and enology programs. Will this work -- or simply give Michigan a graceful way to fall behind other emerging wine regions?

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NY to MI: Wanna buy grapes? PDF Print E-mail
Jim TreziseNew York State growers are expecting a bountiful grape harvest in 2009, hopefully with the great quality levels of the past few years. Even for grapes for which we are most well known, like Riesling and Cabernet Franc, there will be a surplus. So the New York Wine & Grape Foundation (NYWGF) is partnering with Cornell Cooperative Extension (CCE) to try to find “homes” for these wonderful grapes.

-- Letter to Michigan wineries from Jim Trezise
President, New York Wine & Grape Foundation

JULY 3 - New York wineries have a problem, and they hope Michigan wineries have the opposite problem.

In the next few days, every Michigan winery will get a letter from Jim Trezise, President of the New York Wine & Grape Foundation. Its message: We have surplus grapes to sell. Are you interested in buying?

To facilitate transactions, the Foundation and Cornell's Extension Service created a Grape & Wine classified ad website. Only New Yorkers can list grapes and bulk wine for sale -- but buyers from anywhere are welcome.

New York wineries and growers currently offer 46 lots of grapes and ten of finished wine for sale on the site.

 
Thousands come to play at Lake Michigan Shore beach party! PDF Print E-mail
Perfect weather greeted revelers at Bridgman's Weko Beach for the fourth annual Lake Michigan Shore Wine Festival on Saturday, June 20. A dozen wineries poured their wares, while six bands entertained the crowd between tastings. Organizers put attendance at 4,000, up from last year's 3,500. For a critical view of the festivities by an out-of-stater who seems unaware of the difference between St. Julien (France) and St. Julian (Michigan), have a look here .
 
MEDAL WATCH: PDF Print E-mail

4 Best of Class, 4 double gold, 11 gold at Indy Competition

Four Michigan wines took Best of Class and four got double gold at the Indy International Wine Competition on June 16 - 18.  Eleven Michigan wines took gold medals. St. Julian led the way with two Best of Class, a double gold and three golds.

Best of Class at Indy

  • Burgdorf's: NV Perfection (tart cherry)
  • Mackinaw Trail: NV "Big Red" (Chancellor)
  • St. Julian: NV Catawba, NV Niagara

Double gold medals at Indy

  • Burgdorf's: NV Perfection (tart cherry)
  • Brys Estate: 2007 "Artisan" Cabernet Franc
  • Chateau Chantal: 2007 Cabernet Franc Proprietor's Reserve, Krupka Vineyard
  • St. Julian: 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, Braganini Reserve

Gold medals at Indy

  • Brys Estate: 2008 Naked Chardonnay
  • Cascade: NV Raspberry / Chocolate Silk
  • Gill's Pier: 2007 Cabernet Franc /  Merlot
  • Leelanau Cellars: 2007 Semi-Dry Riesling, 2008 Botrytis Vignoles
  • Sandhill Crane: NV Raspberry
  • St. Julian: NV Catawba, 2008 Traminette Braganini Reserve, NV Niagara
  • Tabor Hill: 2004 Cabernet Franc Port, 2008 Riesling

Michigan medal winners from other recent competitions:

 
Now preparing for departure: Chateau Aeronautique PDF Print E-mail
by Joel Goldberg

Did you hear the one about the airline pilot winery owner with a runway in his back yard, a VIP tasting room in his basement, and a crush pad in his airplane hangar -- right next to the vintage Cessna? ca_cab_franc_res.jpg

If that sounds like the lead-in to a bad joke, you'd better straighten up and fly right. Chateau Aeronautique is getting ready to take off this later this summer.

Owner Lorenzo Lizarralde, who captains a DC-9 for Delta at Detroit Metro, recently broke ground for a tasting room in an unlikely spot: next to his aero park home, ten minutes north of Jackson and a short taxi from that backyard runway.

Lizarralde, 48, uses the insulated hangar attached to his house for grape hoppers, a crusher and other vinous paraphernalia, making him Michigan's first hangariste winemaker.

But the winery equipment shares space with the building's primary occupant: the mint-condition 1956 Cessna he flies in his spare time.

 
Bill Hendricks grows Cabernet. Near Brighton. PDF Print E-mail
Bill and Lisa Hendricks
Bill and Lisa Hendricks: A vine grows in Brighton

Is there more to learn about where we can plant vineyards?


It's even less likely than discovering an airplane hangar winery near Jackson that makes high-quality wine.

But many of its top grapes come from a vineyard just north of Brighton. That's a Livingston County exurb, 40 miles northwest of Detroit, without a trace of climate-moderating lake effect in sight.

Don't believe it? Ask Bill Hendricks, owner of Glaciers Edge Farms. His 11 varietals, growing on three-plus acres, survived the mean winter of 2008-9 and a record-tying late May frost with little visible damage. That's more than many growers elsewhere in Michigan can say.

This year marks the fifth vintage for most of his vines. Among the grapes thriving on the property: Riesling, Pinot Gris, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon.

 
DRY ROSÉ REVIEWS: Is it summertime yet? PDF Print E-mail

Forth-Five North rosé, 90 pointsSummertime... and the sippin' is easy. No wine goes with warm weather like a bright, fruity glass of chilled Rosé.

Rosés -- in various hues of pink and orange -- are riding a surge of popularity after two decades in the wilderness, following a consumer backlash against blush wines like the unfortunately-named White Zinfandel. Sales flew up 22% in 2008, while overall wine consumption rose just 5%.

The assortment of Michigan Rosé is also growing, the overwhelming majority made from Cabernet Franc or Pinot Noir grapes.

For these reviews, MichWine's tasting panel sampled 11 different Michigan Rosés. Some were clearly better than others, but we could enjoy a glass of any of them on a hot summer day. Part of the attraction: a variety of styles and sweetness make it easy to find one you like, or to accompany the food you plan to serve.

Our top three wines perfectly illustrate the point. They begin with two grapes from three different growing regions, and represent three completely different styles of wine.

The top-scoring wine, 2008 Forty-Five North Pinot Noir Rosé (90 points), is noticeably off-dry, bursting with bright fruit flavors set against a stiff acid backbone. Right behind (89 points) are 2008 Tabor Hill Cabernet Franc Rosé, bone dry and food-friendly, and 2008 2 Lads Cabernet Franc Rosé, slighly off-dry, nearly red in color and deep in flavor.

IN THE PINK:  REVIEWS OF TEN ROSÉS
        REVIEW NOTES by Chris Kassel and the MichWine Tasters
        ROSÉ ADORES FOOD -- AND THE FEELING IS MUTUAL!
                 by Master Sommelier Claudia Tyagi
        FAQ about MichWine's review procedures and tasting panel

 

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NY WANTS TO SELL GRAPES -- TO MICHIGAN?

New York anticipates a grape surplus in 2009 -- and Jim Trezise of their Wine & Grape Foundation would like to see some of them go to Michigan


KEEP YOUR CANOPY MANAGED!

MSU Extension guy Duke Elsner explains an arcane branch of wine-related knowledge: how to train and prune vines to grow the best grapes 


FREEP: BUYING MICHIGAN

Free Press columnist Carol Cain highlights the gathering momentum behind the "Buy Michigan" movement


SCOTT HARVEY ON THE RIESLING SCALE

Cal Riesling guru (and MI wine fan) Scott Harvey does a good job explaining the Riesling sweetness scale, coming soon to a bottle near you


They bought it on ebay

Are people buying empty bottles from top vintages on eBay in order to refill them -- with counterfeit wine?


NEXT: GLASS STOPPERS?

Australia's Penfolds is testing all-glass closures on a few cases of its flagship wine, 2006 Grange. The "glass to glass" seal allows a bit of oxygen to enter -- just like corks


CALIF: internet sellers BREAK LAW

California beverage controllers say online brokers and wine clubs are illegal, even if they represent licensed wineries and dealers who make the actual sale


WELCOME TO A NEW MI WINE BLOG

Detroit-area blogger Shannon Casey is writing Michigan By the Bottle -- including one entry with a list of wine bars serving Michigan wines


ONTARIO GROWERS: CHANGE LABEL RULES

Farmers say "Cellared in Canada" labels deceive customers who want to buy local, because they can contain 70% foreign-made wine


FRANCE WINS War of the ROSÉS

Facing strong opposition from winemakers in France and elsewhere, the EU has dropped plans to permit rosé blended from red and white wines


MidwesT SEEKS largest U.S. Wine region

Winemakers in parts of Illinois, Iowa, Minnesota and Wisconsin are asking government approval for the 29,000 square mile Upper Mississippi River Valley viticultural area


War of the ROSÉS, PART DEUX

Provence wine exec François Millo, in NY Times op-ed, calls rosé from mixed red and white wines an "imposter" and blasts EU proposal to allow it. Sacrebleu!


PARKER GOES ON TRIAL IN FRANCE

Wine critic Robert Parker is due in a French court on July 10 for allegedly defaming a former assistant by writing that she could "end up stagnating in prison".


RADIO: STATE WINE INDUSTRY KEEPS GROWING

U of M Radio's Jennifer Guerra interviews several industry insiders and concludes it's still gowing -- despite shortages of capital and in-state training


2009 STATE WINERY MAG NOW OUT

Michigan Wine Country -- the official guide of the state's Wine Industry Council -- is available to read online or order (free!) at the link above


Links to wine news from Michigan and elsewhere. Use the Contact Form to let us know what should be here.

MichWine Poll

My favorite Michigan red wines are made from...
 

Joel Goldberg's Blog

New posts every Tuesday, sometimes more frequently

SACRIFICES AND TOUGH CHOICES

MSU

Michigan wine education took several recent steps backward. No good guys or bad guys here, just a state in crisis that may be sacrificing its future to survive the present.

ANOTHER LOST OPPORTUNITY?

Texas TechEmerging wine regions elsewhere are ratcheting up the resources they spend to educate future growers and winemakers. Will Michigan keep up? Or will we lose out tomorrow because we don't invest enough today?

OTHER WINES, OTHER PLACESBill Hendricks and Lorenzo Lizarralde

The one predictable trait of Michigan winemakers and growers: the unpredictability of where and how they'll next push the limits of what's "possible" here.

NO SHORTCUTS

PalomaJim Richards, of Napa's Paloma Vineyard, who died last week, taught an important lesson: you don't make world class wine by looking for shortcuts. 

DRINKIN' OP'S

Bryan Ulbrich and John BurtkaWinemakers -- and their wines -- lose out if they don't regularly taste how other folks make wine from the same grape varieties they use.

NO, SANDRA, REVIEWS ARE BETTER THAN MEDALS

Gold medalWine writer Sandra Silfven makes a case that competition medals offer the best way for consumers to get a handle on top quality wines. I  respectfully disagree.

FIRST TASTE: '08 VINTAGE UP NORTH

Northern Michigan Wineries Last year was more typical for Michigan, not a replay of ultra-ripe 2007. But that doesn't mean there aren't wines to like -- especialy if you enjoy them slightly off-dry, with a bracing jolt of acidity.

LISTENING TO NON-MICHIGAN WINE DRINKERS

Some people say they "don't like" Michigan wines, even though they may not have tasted them in years. That doesn't mean our winemakers shouldn't listen to them.

MichWine Classics

Larry Mawby Ode to the Leelanau Winemaking pioneer Larry Mawby pens a poem about his home

Jim LesterThe South Will Rise! Wyncroft's Jim Lester likes his region's future

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