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Jul 11
2007

When winemakers start new wineries

Posted by Joel Goldberg in Two LadsMike de SchaafMatt MoerschLeft Foot CharleyHickory CreekFree Run CellarsCornel OlivierBryan Ulbrich

It's not by design, but a common theme runs through several recent MichWine articles: for the first time, experienced Michigan winemakers who've worked for others are striking out on their own (or, given financial reality, with the backing of partners) to start new wineries.


This "new wave" consists of folks like Bryan Ulbrich (Left Foot Charley) and Cornel Olivier (Two Lads) in the north, Mike de Schaaf (Hickory Creek) and Matt Moersch (Free Run) in the south. They've all made wine elsewhere, and each now has an ownership stake in his own winery.


Previously, most Michigan wineries seemed to arrive in two ways, not mutually exclusive: (1) People with a passionate desire to make wine, whether or not their dreams were well-grounded in theirskills and experience; (2) Well-to-do individuals or groups of investors for whom owning a winery was a second or third business -- part investment, part trophy, part country retreat.


To these, we can now add a third model: the experienced winemaker as winery entrepreneur.


Why is this worth talking about? Because it reflects the new reality in Michigan's wine industry: wineries with a quality product backed by a strong business plan stand an excellent chance to reap sizable financial rewards -- and critical recognition -- in Michigan's emerging wine boom over the next decade or two.


These new winemakers / winery owners are closer to the ground than any of their predecessors, and one has to assume that they see this most clearly. Their experience means that they approach the wine business with few romantic illusions -- just the need to make a profit to stay in business. That's a powerful motivator.


And here's the question their actions are answering: would you have taken advantage of the chance to buy some land for a winery in Napa Valley in 1970?


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