The other day, Claudia Tyagi and I drove west to Buchanan, in the Lake Michigan Shore district, to spend a good chunk of a day visiting and tasting with Jim and Rae Lee Lester at Wyncroft, highlighted by a five-year vertical of their flagship Bordeaux-blend, Shou (pronounced "show".) The two most recent samples -- 2005 and 2006 -- came from barrel, though Jim's about to bottle the '05.

I'm hopeless at evaluating very young reds like the seemingly-delightful but lighter '06. The '99 is evolving into a wonderful mature claret. But it was the '05 that really stole the -- ah -- show. It's clearly the best vintage yet of this wine -- oppulently rich and nicely wooded, with the kind of underlying natural acid backbone that most California Meritage can only dream about. At $45 a bottle, sold only by the case and only from the winery, it's also Michigan's most expensive non-icewine -- but would easily hold its own in a tasting of similarly-styled and priced wines from anywhere in the world. If you're on the fence about buying some, I'd place an order before writer David Schildknecht (from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate) comes knocking at Wyncroft later in the summer.

But that's not what I wanted to write about. The Lesters said that Claudia and I had to visit the new (open since last August) Hickory Creek Winery nearby -- and punctuated their suggestion by joining us for the drive over. Winemaker and grapegrower Mike de Schaaf, who cut his teeth at Round Barn, welcomed the four of us with a tasting through his current releases (all 2005 vintage) and a few barrel samples from 2006.

In short: Mike's a kick-butt winemaker. Although he starts with higher percentages of younger-vine and purchased fruit that don't reach Wyncroft-like levels of concentration and finesse, every one of his efforts displays a ringingly pure varietal clarity and spot-on balance. My favorites were the Estate Riesling and "Melange" Bordeaux-blend which, unlike the Shou, is based around Cabernet Franc rather than Cabernet Sauvignon. And his only-slightly off-dry Apple wine -- from multiple heirloom apple varieties -- would make a delightful aperitif or dessert pour.

Now that Hickory Creek is on my radar, I'll be checking back with Mike periodically. He's definitely a winemaker to watch in years to come.