by Sally Goldberg 

This fall, Coenraad Stassen will ferment Michigan's first Chenin Blanc grapes at Brys Estate, from just over half an acre of vines planted by fellow South African Cornel Olivier.

It's no surprise that Michigan's introduction to Chenin Blanc comes from a collaboration of two South Africans. While the grape is native to France's Loire Valley, it's the most-planted white varietal in South Africa, where it also goes by the name "Steen".

Like Riesling, Chenin Blanc thrives in cooler climates to produce a variety of ageworthy wines, from bone-dry to ultra-sweet.

Both transplanted winemakers arrived in Michigan with hands-on experience making Chenin Blanc in South Africa. Coenraad says he produced about 800,000 gallons (13,000 cases) in two different styles before he decamped for the U.S.

"One style has more of the coastal influence, like a Sauvignon Blanc," he explains. "The other is a little bigger in the mid-palate and shows more melon and gooseberry. I think we are going to get more of the coastal style or, hopefully, a little of both influences. My approach would be to try to make both styles the first year, just to see what can be achieved."

Cornel raises one possible warning flag. "My only concern is how it is going to adapt to the cold winters here. There are not many clones available, but the vines are tough and hard to kill," he notes.

He intends to continue with Chenin Blanc at Two Lads Winery. "There is a place for Chenin Blanc in Michigan," he says.

Coenraad concurs. "I want to show the winemakers from California how to make a Chenin Blanc."

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